The best beaches of Costa da Morte near Hotel Balarés: local guide with the best kept secrets
- Rafa Varela
- Jun 3
- 7 min read
Discover the best beaches of the Costa da Morte, according to locals. Pristine, wild, and little-known beaches on Galicia's most authentic coastline.
There's a Costa da Morte that doesn't appear in travel guides. A coastline that tourists pass by on their way to Carnota or Fisterra, unaware that right here, between Ponteceso and Cabana de Bergantiños, lies a part of Galicia's wildest, most intimate, and most genuinely Atlantic coast.
We know it because we were born and raised here, and we've grown accustomed to it, so we sometimes forget to appreciate its incredible beauty. Until a visitor reminds us and says something like, "You have no idea how lucky you are..."
From Hotel Balarés , located opposite Balarés Beach, we've been secretly enjoying this little corner of the Costa da Morte for years, discovering it with every tide, every season. This is our selection of our favorite beaches, most of them unknown even to many Galicians.
Balarés Beach — ours
We see it every morning and never tire of looking at it. Balarés beach is a vast stretch of fine, white sand with Monte Branco—the tallest free-falling dune in Europe—as its backdrop. A landscape that changes with every tide and every hour of the day, with the Atlantic light transforming the colors of the water between turquoise and leaden gray.
A centuries-old pine forest, perhaps the one that inspired Pondal's "Queixumes dos Pinos," surrounds the beach on its inner side, creating that characteristic combination of the Costa da Morte: the scent of the sea mixed with pine resin. Not overcrowded even in summer, it's the ideal starting point for exploring the other beaches in this guide. Awarded the Blue Flag and sheltered from the north winds, it's a perfect place to enjoy the Atlantic Ocean.
How to get there: On foot from Hotel Balarés, direct access in less than two minutes.
A Barra Beach — dunes and solitude
Just on the other side of Monte Branco, A Barra is one of those places that makes those who discover it keep its secret with a touch of selfishness. A vast dune system, almost two kilometers long and four hundred meters wide, forms one of the most impressive landscapes in the entire Corme and Laxe estuary. From the top of Monte Branco, which you can reach on foot from the hotel, you can see the whole area: Ponteceso, Cabana de Bergantiños, Laxe, Corme, and the Anllóns inlet, creating a picture-postcard panorama.
The beach itself is extensive, with minimal occupancy year-round. Although perfectly suitable for swimming, we advise caution due to the currents, as the sea meets the river at this point and it can be dangerous to let your guard down. At low tide, you can access Tiñosa Island and enjoy the scenery from there, but always be sure to leave in time before the tide comes in, or you'll have to wait there for it to recede again. :)
It's a perfect beach for walking, taking photos, and experiencing the true scale of the ocean. If you enjoy birdwatching, just a few meters past the dunes there's an ideal birdwatching hide in an area especially rich in countless species.
How to get there: On foot from Balarés, a 25-30 minute walk, or from Currás, in O Couto, about a 10 minute walk. It is not accessible by car (thankfully).
Niñóns beach — between two mountains
Nestled between two hills in the parish of Niñóns, this small cove beach is one of those hidden gems known only to locals or those hiking the Camiño dos Faros (Lighthouse Way). Fine white sand, a rural and forested setting, and Atlantic vegetation reaching right to the edge of the beach. Its distinctive waves and seclusion make it a must-see for those seeking authenticity over modern conveniences.
On either side of the beach begin the trails of the Camiño dos Faros, the 200-kilometer route that connects Malpica with Fisterra along the coast. The first stage ends here and the second begins. It also boasts Blue Flag status, and one important detail: there's no cell phone service here... making it the ideal place to truly disconnect.
How to get there: From the hotel towards Corme, a turn to the right takes you to Brantuas where you will find the turn to the left that leads to the beach.
Arnela Beach — the heart of Corme
Just 100 meters long, Arnela is the beach of the village of Corme Porto: small, secluded, with a perfect crescent shape, fine white sand, and moderate waves. Completely sheltered from the wind, it's one of those tranquil beaches where time seems to stand still among the anchored fishing boats.
From its western end, a short 200-meter promenade runs along the sea to O Osmo beach. The Arnela-Osmo area, connected by this small walkway, is one of the lesser-known gems of the Corme and Laxe estuary. In summer, it offers all necessary amenities and accessible restrooms.
How to get there: From Ponteceso take the AC-424 towards Corme Porto, 8.5 km. The beach is in the center of the village.
O Osmo Beach — the small cove on the promenade
Neighboring Arnela and connected to it by the seafront promenade, O Osmo is a small, crescent-shaped beach in the semi-urban setting of Corme Porto. It boasts fine, white sand, is completely sheltered from the winds, and has moderate waves.
It's a human-scale, unpretentious beach where the locals spend their summer afternoons. One of those places you can only discover by walking.
How to get there: On foot from Arnela beach, 200 meters along the seafront promenade.
A Ermida Beach — history, legend and Blue Flag
A Ermida is probably the beach with the most layers in the area. A crescent of fine, white sand in a rural setting among pine trees, it stretches for 350 meters and boasts a Blue Flag. But what makes it unique is what lies opposite: the island of A Estrela, an islet that, according to legend, was once connected to the mainland by a sandbar, of which only the current beach remains. On the island, there is a Celtic hill fort and the remains of a hermitage dedicated to the Virgin of A Estrela; in its ancient tombs rested the unknown sailors whom the sea brought to the shore.
The beach's dune system is protected as a Site of Community Importance (SCI) and a Special Protection Area for Birds (SPA). Next to the beach, a pine grove with stone tables invites you to dine while listening to the sea.
How to get there: From Ponteceso take the AC-424 towards Corme Aldea. In Corme Aldea, there is a signposted turnoff to the left towards the beach. About 10 minutes from the hotel.
Also from the hotel, a forest track leads directly to the beach, passing through Gondomil and its mysterious Pedra da Serpe.
Cala de A Barda — the best-kept secret
If we had to choose just one beach from this list to keep quiet, it would be A Barda. A sheltered cove, accessible on foot via a coastal path, with two small beaches separated by rocky outcrops. The centuries-old fishermen's huts dotting the shore bear witness to centuries of connection with the sea. Crystal-clear waters, gentle waves, gorse and broom in bloom in spring. No lifeguards, no showers, no parking. Just nature and the Atlantic.
The area is protected by the Natura 2000 Network. To get there you have to earn it: access via a steep track or on foot along the coastal path from Balarés.
How to get there: On foot from Hotel Balarés, approximately 1 hour. By car via the AC-424 until a right turn before Corme-Aldea.
Area das Vacas — for those who seek the impossible
There are beaches that require effort to reach but reward you many times over. Area das Vacas is one of them. Located between Rebordelo and Costa da Mundiña, the official beach information system itself warns of its "difficult access due to the poor condition of the road" and its "low occupancy rate." In beach parlance, that means: hardly anyone comes here, and that's precisely what makes it special.
It's a stop on the Camiño dos Faros (Lighthouse Way) on its third stage between Ponteceso and Laxe, where pilgrims on the coastal route discover it as they descend from Monte Castelo. An Atlantic landscape in its purest form, with no noticeable human intervention.
And its curious name? Well, it's said that the residents of Canduas used to take their cows there when they needed to treat foot wounds. It was the most accessible place for that purpose.
How to get there: On foot via the Camiño dos Faros, Ponteceso-Laxe stage. Or leave your car at the Mirador de Aguieira viewpoint and walk a few meters.
Rebordelo Beach — the forest reaches the sea
The largest beach in Cabana de Bergantiños is striking for its surroundings: a pine and eucalyptus forest that stretches almost to the shore, creating that characteristic Galician coastal atmosphere where green and blue blend seamlessly. It has parking and a picnic area with stone tables overlooking the sea, making it the most convenient option in this selection for families.
Also a stage of the Camiño dos Faros in the section between Ponteceso and Laxe, it is a beach that combines the convenience of basic services with the tranquility of being away from conventional tourist circuits.
How to get there: Via the AC-431 Ponteceso-Laxe road. About 15 minutes from the hotel by car.
San Pedro Beach — the most hidden sandy beach
San Pedro is the most secluded beach in the municipality of Cabana de Bergantiños. Hidden between two small mountain ranges, nestled amidst rugged nature, its access is only suitable for those who value privacy over convenience. Fine sand and an untouched environment make it one of those places to be treasured in silence.
Don't look for signs or services. Look for it with time, calmly, and with the attitude of someone who understands that the best places require effort. The reward is well worth it.
How to get there: Access on foot from the Rebordelo area, following the coastal path.
A territory to inhabit slowly
These ten beaches form a necklace of Atlantic havens that can be explored over several days from Hotel Balarés, using the hotel as your base. Some are less than a five-minute walk away. Others require half a day. They all share something that conventional travel guides can't capture: that Atlantic silence that only exists when the sea has the space to reveal itself in its most honest form.
If you'd like us to advise you on the best way to explore the beaches depending on the time of year, the tides, or your preferences, just ask us at the hotel. We know every inch of this coastline and are happy to share it with you.
Ah... and in some places you can enjoy the mysterious Sea of Ardora on summer nights... but we'll tell you that secret here, in person.
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